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1995-11-30
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Residential Burglary
INTRODUCTION:
So you REALLY want to be a criminal now, eh? Well, this file should show
you the correct ways and aspects of 'breaking' into this highly rewarding
career. Some files which I also recommend reading are any ASCII files
concerning security, and/or stealth combat.
TOOLS OF THE TRADE:
For maximum effectiveness, take a good glass cutter, a screwdriver (both
standard and philupshead), a crowbar (optional), large nilon bag (1 at least),
good boot knife or dagger, spray foam insulation, duck tape, flashlight, and
a vehicle of some sorts (preferably a car or truck).
Make sure the spray foam insulation is quick-drying, this is VERY important
and I'll tell you why later on.
Take the crowbar only if you feel the job requires it, a crowbar is EXTREAM
and should be avoided, because it not only slows you down, but is noisy and
bulky as well.
THE BASICS:
You want to case the house first (which will be described later) and make
sure there is NO deviation. When you finally decide it's the right time (it
doesn't make much of a difference if it's day or night, but night is more of
a prefered time for obvious reasons). Once in, be quick and cautious, take
only the things you either want or can sell quickly. Anything big (like TV's,
VCR's, and Sterios) should be left for the pro's. When you are ready to go
make sure you leave the same way you came in. Once out, take a quick route
back to the car and make sure you can't be observed by anyone. Be smart and
DON'T go near the house after robbing it, the police almost always go by the
saying "The criminal will return to the scene of the crime."
CASING THE HOUSE:
First, try to get a general idea of how the house is layed out, and make a
semi-detailed map of the outside, ajacent area, and all of the houses' windows
and doors. Also map out all the streets, houses, and landmarks for about 2
blocks of all directions of the house. Watch and record the activities which
normally are going on, such as cars, people, lights (inside houses), etc.
Once you have found all of that info, plan out the best way to approch and
leave the house, preferably the darkest/least housed direction. Make at least
two other alternate escape routes! Also figure out which way the police would
probably come from.
POPULAR MISCONCEPTIONS:
A glasscutter does NOT just cut right through the class and then you simply
push a piece of the window in. A glasscutter simply makes it possible to
break the glass neatly and evenly. You also must exert a fair amount of force
when cutting, you can't just swing it across and expect it to break well.
GAINING ENTRANCE:
Widows are a houses main weakspot. Find a suitable window, and examine it
totally! Look for a magnetic switch somewhere on the frame... if none is
present, then try to push on the window and slide it in the direction that
opens it, like this:
STANDARD LOCK
LOCK WINDOW (OPENS)
\ / +----++--------
]=_______+-------=[ +___/ +--------
/ ^ //
WINDOW '|` PUSH THIS ------+-+ LOCK LIFTS
(DOESN'T OPEN) | WAY! --------+ TO OPEN
You are trying to push the window so that the lock moves away from the stop-
pers. If this doesn't work, then take the glasscutter and cut a straight line
accross, about in the middle of it. Then take the duck tape, and place it
along the line, making the line the duck tapes center. Then pull all of the
black molding around the window out, and throw it out of the way. Then take
the screwdriver and pry the bottom of the glass out of the frame. Once this
is achieved, the rest is easy, pull it out to a little ways past the duck tape
and hit it (like a karate chop) and it should break evenly and with very little
sound.
Once in, take time to look at all the neighboring houses, and try to see if
there's any abnormal activity. If so, and you think it's about you, get out!
OBSTICALS:
If there is an exterior alarm bell box, take the philupshead screwdriver and
punch a hole through part of the plastic. Then take the foam insulation and
fill up the alarm box with it. Allow at least 5 minutes for it to dry! Once
dry, the foam will either stop the bell from sounding, or muffle it down to
nothing.
If there is a magnetic switch attached to the window and you want to disarm
it, examine it first! If it looks like it's expensive, don't mess with it!
Some are wired to go off when you open'em. If it's Radio Shack or some other
fairly lame company, take it appart and see if the magnet is holding the
wires together or appart. If it's holding the wires appart, then cut both
wires going to the alarm. That means when the alarm gets current, like from
you junctioning across or opening the window, that the alarm sounds. If the
magnet is holding the wires together, then junction across the two wires, and
then cut the wires going to the box. The same holds true to the door alarms.
If you are in doubt about how the alarm is wired, DON'T TOUCH IT! Since you
obviously haven't tripped it yet, there's a good chance you won't!
I've found dogs to be the least of all threats. Most of the time the dog is
happy to see anyone, and if you pet it it'll leave you alone. Some dogs can
be bastards though, and just throwing some meat over the fence almost always
works. Poodles are waste dogs and need to be killed because they make so much
noise, and believe me, the meat only stops them from barking for a few minutes.
Silent alarms a VERY rare due to the cost of'em, but just to be safe, it's
always good to cut the phone lines. If you are in the house, find the alarm,
and realize it's a silent one (a phone outlet in the back is a dead giveaway)
then get the hell out of there! But make sure you go out the same way you got
in! There's no reason to trip it for sure if it's possible you didn't.
Neighborhood Watch is nothing more than a pain in the ass, especially when
it comes to casing the house. They are very active during the day, and almost
dead at night (since most of them are old shits).
ONCE IN:
Once in, examine every room carefully. Most people will stash money in with
their underwear (mostly it's in the guys drawer). Also check the vents, power
outlets, and refigerator/freezer for abnormal stuff, lot's of people buy those
stupid-shit money holders.
If there is a safe, save it for last and only mess with it if you've got
enough time. I won't go into geting into safe's unless there is some demand,
since safes are rarely found.
Do not vandalize the house, that just draws more attention to the case and
attention is one thing you DON'T want, for obvious reasons...
GETTING OUT:
Once again, check all of the neighbors houses for activity, if there's none,
leave the SAME WAY YOU GOT IN! I can't enhasize that point enough! You don't
always know when there's an alarm system, even after you've been through the
house, and you don't want the cops around too soon. Leave by following one
of your escape paths, and go for your vehicle. Once there, drive off, not
directly to your house, but not the opposite direction, and see if you are
being followed (which is VERY rare, but you should take the time to check).
Do not store most of the stuff at your house... put it at a friends house or
stash it somewhere. Because if the cops come, the first place they'll look
is your house.
THE GETAWAY CAR:
Your car should be fast, but not like a Porche or anything like that, those
cars draw too much attention. You should also make it a black color, if at
all possible. You may also want to remove your plates if you want to be extra
careful. And make sure it has a full tank of gas!
OVERCOMING OBSTICLES -ALARM SYSTEMS:
Alarm systems are by far a burglers worst enemy, but if you're determined
enough, and the house contains something valuable, there are many ways around
even the best.
CIRCUIT SYSTEM:
This is the most common, the one in which if you open a door or window, you
break the circuit and a the alarm sounds... Standard. If the bell is outside,
refer to my first file, if it's inside, continue reading. Get a hand drill and
a small pen saw. If the door looks like this:
+------+ _________
|[][][]| | ------- | This is like paneling that
|[][][]| CLOSE-UP || || is sunk in on the sides and
|o [][]| <-------------- || || stickes out in the middle,
|[][][]| |._______.| very common design.
+------+ |_________|
Then you're set, just take the hand drill, and drill a hole in the upper
corner of the panel that's below the doorknob. Then take the pen saw and cut
the panel out... reach in (hoping there isn't a friendly dog) and unlock the
door. Stick your head in the door and locate the alarm part connected to the
door, strip thw wires WITHOUT CUTTING THEM and check the voltage in each wire.
If there's current in one, and none in the other, cut the wires and open the
door. If there's current in both, junction accross them and then cut the
leads going to the door. Open the door, and enter cautiously! Once inside,
replace the panel and tape it from the inside, so any passerby won't be
suspicious and report this strange event to the proper athorities.
If they don't have a suitable door like that you can always cut through the
wall and do it that way (not advisable).
MOTION SYSTEMS:
This is becoming more and more common every year. The best way is to see if
it's silent or bell. If it's bell, refer to my first file. If it's a silent
alarm, refer to the Silent System section.
SILENT SYSTEMS:
These are the silent alarms that either call the cops or call the security
company who in turn calls the cops. Write down the name of the company (it's
written all over those stupid stickers that have a lighning bolt and say shit
like "Don't fuck with this house. It's protected by Zippi Alarm Systems If
any questions or comments call us at SAF-HOME (123-4567)). Call up Zippi and
say 'Hi, I want to test my alarm so please disconnect the system for an hour
or so so the police aren't bothered.' Zippi most of the time (being nieve)
will say 'Daaahh, OK.' and you're set.
CALL BEFORE YOU LEAP:
Go to a local pay phone, dial the number, let it ring about 20 times, if no
one answers, leave the phone off the hook and get over there. If the phone
at their house is still ringing, there's a pretty good chance that there is a
nice EMPTY house waiting to be plucked.
HOW SAFE ARE SAFE'S:
On some safe's you can take a screwdriver, place it on the dial, and hit the
dial off. Then just pound on the locking mechanism, literally beating the guts
out of it. Some safes, however, have a iron locking thing which only spreads
out, making the situation worse then before.
HIDING PLACES:
People hide money EVERYWHERE. In the bathroom, closet, dressers, everywhere.
Money is almost never hidden in young kids rooms because the kid might find
the money and play with the shit. When searching the room/closet/whatever,
work from the bottom up. That way the shit you cover up when you're knocking
down on the top shelf won't hinder you at the bottom. Don't try to be neat or
clean, you won't have to clean up the stuff so be as messy as you want.
ESCAPE ROUTES:
Make sure to go through a house first and find at least one other escape
route, like the back door, and make sure nothings blocking it, and that it's
not locked, etc...
CHOICE HOUSES:
A house on the corner is almost always better for a day robbery, because you
don't have to worry about neighbors on both sides of you. At night, a house
with neighbors on both sides is almost always better because that way you are
not near a light (lights on the corner of a block).
STORE TACTICS:
There's only one really GREAT way to nail stores in a big way, got to an out-
door mall, and find the store you want to hit (like a jewelry store). And
closely examine the alarm system. Then examine the ajoining stores secuirity.
Find the weakest, break into it, and go through the walls until you reach the
store you want.
Another method is to have a 'Indoor man', who is someone who goes into the
store, and hides somewhere, once the store closes and everyone's gone, he
comes out, and disarms the alarm from the inside.
PATTERN TACTIC:
As things work out, most burglers will gain entry into houses the same way
every time, until they get caught doing it that way, or they find a better
way. So, a guy who climbs awnings and then breaks a window to get in will
probably continue to do so that way until he either learns how to pick locks
or gets caught doing it that way.
COVERING YOUR TRACKS:
Once you master picking locks, and are very successful at robing houses, do
this... Pick the lock, rob the house, and once everything is in your car,
break a window, thus making it appear to be an amature.
Commercial Burglary
INTRODUCTION
Hello and welcome, to the conclusion of the Robbing Houses Trilogy (Boy, I
am starting to feel like one of those Dragonlance Authors). I'm back, and
with a vengence towards all authority and law... Shit, who needs 'em? Ok,
this is a followup to the first two which dealt mainly with private home
burgalery, which can be profitable and fun, but not nearly as in the case
of commercial burgaleries (Forgive the mispelled title, but 2 M's just would
NOT fit!). Fortunantly for us, the theives of todays modern world, laws
help to protect us from the laws which we willingly violate. On the average
commercial burgalers get half to one-third the punishment of those who do
home robberies. Why is this? you might ask... Well, it's simple... The laws
are the same, but our loving government doesn't frown upon infringing upon
a business, as much as that of an individual. And since in most cases these
types of crimes are the plea-barganers dream, you rarely see a jury trial.
The more personal explanation is this, a person (including the judge) looks
at someone who breaks into family homes like this "Hmmm... If I don't throw
the book at him, he might break into my house.", whereas with businesses its
more like this "Hmmm... I never really liked Radio Shack anyways...". Well,
you get the general idea, residental burgaleries tend to hit too close to
home (oh, what an awful pun!). Most of the same techniques apply to these
type of breakins, although for the most part they tend to be easier.
I have one question to pose for all you deviants out there... Why is it
almost all the fraud-only groups turn out lame? Hmmm, the world may never
know. Make sure to check out the other files I've written, and your nearest
H/P dealer...
As usual this carries the official Video Vindicator disclaimer, which
basically states I take full responsibity for manipulating you into breaking
into businesses, and I really secretly placed subliminal messages in my
ASCII title art. Ok course, I take ABSOLUTELY NO responsibility for any
legal uses found within this file, and make no claims, applied or real,
towards the true existance of God. Thank you for your time.
PLUS'S TOWARDS COMMERCIAL BREAKINS
One of the most evident advantages of breaking into businesses is the fact
that most likely after hours it will be deserted, and you pretty much have
a good idea of when the people are slated to arrive the next day. This
leaves out the always-present fear that someone will stumble into you why
you're having a little uninvited party.
Another plus to businesses is the fact that they tend to have just what
you're looking for, since you pick them specifically for that purpose. And
everyone knows new merchandise is much easier to sell than 'previously-
owned' stuff.
Businesses also tend to have either great locations, are great back
entrances into them. This can make your life alot easier. Some older ones
it could be possible to go in through the ceiling. Never pass this over,
since it bypasses all primary security systems (but not motion...).
The benefits, in my option, tend to outweight the ones involved in home,
and tied in with the fact that they both share the same risk, but one a
lesser punishment, is enough for me. Most of the file, I recap a couple of
place's I've hit, and how I did them, so you can do them in your area. Make
sure you have a reason to hit each one, and try to change your MO (Method of
Operation) fairly ofter. Like go in through the window of one, then the
roof of the other, etc...
AHHH... RADIO SHACK
I just HAD to break into this joke, since they always brag to customers
about their 'high-tech' security system. What a laught. First off, locate
the phone lines out. Unusally they are located on the top of the building,
although some are on the side. Now, cut EVERY fucking wire in the thing...
Wow, no phone - no call... Pretty simple, huh? Next take and hit the main
window with the crowbar, the alarm won't go off for 15-30 sec (depending on
weither they can figure out how to set it). During this time break the rest
of the glass out of the window, so it isn't quite so obvious that its broken.
Now run and hid somewhere that you can watch it from, after about 10 minutes
the alarm will reset and stop. Now, Radio Shack is the only place you can
do this type of raid on, since their system main bell is located inside the
building, SEVERLY limiting the effective sound range, and combined with the
fact it's probably in a business district, no one should be around to hear
it's faint sounds. I personally prefer Friday or Saturday night around 11 or
12, since the cops are occupied elsewhere busting parties. Next, after the
alarm resets, and you're sure that there is noone coming to pay you a visit,
jump in through the window and run back into the storage area, this is
usually where the bell is located. It should start up again shortly, but
this time grab the bell and/or wires and rip the damn thing down. Now you
have successfully disarmed their best alarm system. I personnally feel a
little more gratification by smashing the unit itself with the crowber, just
for added effect. Now just rape the place and get out. Nothing could be
simpler.
Now here's one advantage to picking Radio Shack as one of your first hits,
if you go in before, usually 2 or 3 weeks, you can ask any question that
comes to mind concerning their alarm (and getting around it) to any of their
highly trained (Ya, right.), professional salestaff. This way you can see
if their system differs from any of the ones I've hit.
Some things that you should definantly get while in there are the following
items: A Police Scanner (the 20 channel version), 4 good walkie-talkies (in
case you want to include some others on your next raid), their 386-sx laptop
computer (for hacking, since it you're forced to leave it somewhere, at least
you only left a fucking Tandy), and anything else that might be benefical
to an up-and-coming criminal.
UNITED PARCEL SERVICE (UPS)
UPS is GREAT. This place doesn't know the meaning of the word security.
I hit these losers 8 times before they finally caught on! This is a good
job for all those who don't want to physically go into a building, but still
want a lot of shit. UPS is kinda like a free-for-all in a mall, since you
don't know what the hell you're going to find in the trucks. Anyways, heres
what you do.
UPS has this nasty habit of parking their semi's full of packages in the
back of their parking lot on Saturday night. One note, Saturday is the ONLY
night you can do this, since they open and close so damn late every other
night. Anyways, all you do is take a bolt cutter with you, and pick a good
looking semi in the back... Cut the little lock-ie-thing (it's not a real
lock, just some wierd reusable metal thingy), slide the back open and WALA,
you're in! Like I said, security? I found it was best to just say forget
neatness and jump into the back, throwing out boxes that you don't want.
Now, I personally look at the return address, if it sounds like something
I'm interested, I toss it into the back of the car, if not, on the ground
it goes.
One variant you might want to try (which I have not), would be to insure
some empty box for a totally high amount, and send it Saturday afternoon (so
you know it's in the semi), then look specifically for it. When it's gone,
UPS forks over the insured value... in cash... very convienient.
UPS also seems to loop security blankly in the face, and place their office
in the middle of nowhere... Making it very obvious for you if anyone is
approaching. I personally would have 3 people on a job like this. One would
be in the truck, searching through the boxes. One would be sorting through
the one he throws down, and placing them in the vehicle. The final would be
waiting in the vehicle, listening to scanner to have a little warning if
any pig got the idea to come out and nose around. Only the first two should
be in walkie-talkie contact, but the third should have easy access to one,
so he doesn't get distracted from the scanner by the first two talking. You
can look at up to 6 hours there safely! Make sure to case it out first so
you have a good idea of just how long you really do have.
Here's a little side note on all the times I did it. The first three times
were fine, but on the fourth they placed the semi's back-to-back, so you
can't get it. So solve this, cut the hydrolic cables at the front, on both,
and they will 'kneel' so you can get it! On the fifth attempt type moved
all the semi's into the building and left the little brown trucks outside,
so I went around and vandalized EVERY one. Needless to say, the semi's were
out the next weekend, but so were the cops, so I skipped that one. Finally
they wised up, paid their people mass-overtime, and cleaned out the semi's
before I got there... So hopefully you can apply this to your own situation.
THE POST OFFICE
You probably are thinking, Why the hell you would you want to break into
the post office? Well, the answer is simple, you see, every PO is your area
has a postal key, which will open EVERY big blue mailbox, EVERY apt complex
letterboxes, EVERY place a postman might go! It's a large, easy to duplicate
key that looks kinda like this:
## ## ####
#### ## ### ######## This is like a VERY crude
####### #### ##### ##### ## drawing of what they actually
################################# ## look like, but you get the
####### #### ##### ##### ## general idea. It's about 3x
#### ## ### ######## the size of a normal key.
## ## ####
The left side is just a mirror image of the right. You could easily copy it
if you have a shop class and access to like those metal folders and cutters.
Usually it is kept towards the back of the PO, in a big chain-link cage...
Which you can cut through with bolt cutters. Once again, like UPS, choose to
do it on a Saturday night, so you have no fear of being discovered. There
are some negative and positive things about this place that I should mention,
It is a federal building, so therefore a federal offense when breaking in...
So roughly translated what this means is don't get caught. The plus is no
matter how many times you break in, they will never put in an alarm, and they
will only strengthen security the way you got in (just as stupid as UPS). I
remember the first time we broke in, we went in through the back door, it
opened out, so we just removed the little hing-things and took the door off.
The second time they made a door that opened in, but made out of cheap wood,
so we kicked it in. The third time they made it a steel door, but they left
a fucking window in it, so we broke the window and reached in to unlock it.
The fourth time they made an all-steel door, no window, so we went in through
a cheap skylight in the roof. The fifth (yes, five fucking times!) we just
smashed one of the windows on the side and went in through that. The post
office was like on of out little hobbies... There really wasn't much to take,
but it sure was fun breaking in!
FILE LIST
Since a couple of people asked me for a list of files I've written, I just
decided to toss it on this file, so here they are, in no real order...
BIC BALISTICS THE ROCK BOX
CARDING, MY WAY (3 parts) ROBBING HOUSES (3 parts)
CAR SABOTAGE WHERE TO GET WEAPONS
and of course...
UNCONVENTIONAL WARFARE, DEVICES & TECHNIQUES (6 parts)
Here's a couple that are in the works, and will hopefully be released soon
as well...
CBI ACCOUNTS & LOCATION HELPER - Lists alot of the CBI accounts
and their appropriate companies.
Also includes a more complete
breakdown of how to decrypt acnts.
RELEASE DATE AROUND 09/91
AUTO THEFT, A PRACTICAL APPROACH - Not another bullshit file on
stealing cars, this covers every
topic, including getting a stolen
one registerd! (I've done it)
RELEASE DATE AROUND 10/91
IDENTITY HOPING, FOR FUN & PROFIT - Will cover how to take over
someones identity, and do eveything
from get an ID to getting loans!
RELEASE DATE AROUND 11/91
